How to Choose the Right Circular Saw Blade: Wood, Metal & Masonry Guide
Quick summary: Circular saw blades are matched to material by tooth count, grind pattern and diameter — not just brand or price. Wood needs fewer, larger teeth for fast ripping or more teeth for clean crosscuts. Metal and masonry need entirely different blade technology, not just a "finer" wood blade. Getting this wrong causes burning, kickback and wrecked blades. This guide breaks down exactly which blade to grab for timber, sheet goods, metal and besser blocks, with real prices from Bunnings and Total Tools.
Most DIYers own one circular saw blade — the one that came in the box. That's fine for rough framing, but it's the wrong choice for plywood, treated pine decking, metal roofing, or besser blocks.
The right blade makes the cut faster, cleaner and safer. The wrong one burns timber, chips veneer, or simply won't touch the material at all.
Circular Saw Blade Basics Explained
Every circular saw blade is defined by three things: diameter, arbor size, and tooth configuration. Get any of these wrong and the blade either won't fit your saw or won't cut the material properly.
Blade Diameter and Arbor Size
Most Australian circular saws take either 165mm or 184mm blades, though 235mm blades are common on bigger site saws. The arbor (centre hole) size also has to match — usually 20mm in Australia, though some imported blades use 16mm or 25.4mm with a reducer ring.
Always check your saw's manual before buying. A blade that's the wrong diameter won't seat properly against the saw's guard, and forcing it is a genuine safety hazard.
Understanding Tooth Count and Grind
Tooth count is the single biggest factor in cut quality. Fewer teeth (16-24) remove material fast and are great for ripping rough framing timber. More teeth (40-80) leave a smoother finish but cut slower and generate more heat.
Grind pattern matters too:
- ATB (Alternate Top Bevel) — general-purpose wood cutting, good for crosscuts
- FTG (Flat Top Grind) — aggressive ripping, common on framing blades
- TCG (Triple Chip Grind) — used on blades for laminate, aluminium and abrasive materials
If you only remember one rule: fewer teeth for speed and rough cuts, more teeth for finish and delicate materials.
Choosing Blades for Cutting Wood
Wood is where most home circular saws spend 90% of their life, but "a wood blade" isn't one thing — softwood framing and fine hardwood joinery need very different blades.
Softwood vs Hardwood Australian Timber Species
For softwood framing like pine and treated pine, a 24-tooth combination blade handles rip and crosscuts without bogging down. The Makita 165mm 24T circular saw blade is a solid, affordable option at around $25-30.
What circular saw blade should I use for cutting hardwood? Australian hardwoods like blackbutt, spotted gum and ironbark are dense and can chew through cheap blades fast. Go for a 40-tooth ATB blade with a thicker carbide tip — the Freud Diablo 165mm 40T blade (around $45-55 at Total Tools) handles hardwood without dulling within a single deck's worth of cuts.
Why does my circular saw blade burn the timber when cutting? Burning usually comes down to three things: too few teeth for the density of the timber, a dull or gummed-up blade, or feeding the saw too slowly and letting the blade rub instead of cut. Clean the resin off your blade with a dedicated blade cleaner or even oven cleaner, and increase your feed rate slightly.
What is the best circular saw blade for treated pine decking? A 32-40 tooth combination blade is the sweet spot — enough teeth to leave a clean edge for visible decking boards, without being so fine that resin build-up causes burning. The copper-treatment in treated pine is also mildly corrosive to blade bodies over time, so rinse and dry blades after use.
Plywood, MDF and Laminate Boards
How many teeth do I need on a circular saw blade for plywood? For plywood, MDF and laminate, aim for 60-80 teeth. These sheet materials splinter and chip easily, especially on the top face, so a high tooth count with a smaller gullet gives a much cleaner edge.
The Makita 165mm 60T fine finish blade is a popular pick for around $40 and handles plywood, veneered MDF and melamine without tearing the surface layer.
For laminate benchtops specifically, a TCG (triple chip) blade resists chipping the brittle laminate surface better than a standard ATB grind.
Blades for Cutting Metal
Can you cut metal with a normal circular saw blade? No — and doing so is genuinely dangerous. Standard wood blades spin too fast for metal, and the carbide teeth aren't shaped to shear metal cleanly. This can shatter teeth off the blade at high speed, throw sparks into sawdust, or cause serious kickback.
Metal cutting blades use far more teeth (usually 60-80) with a negative hook angle that controls the cutting speed and prevents the blade grabbing the material.
Ferrous vs Non-Ferrous Blade Options
Ferrous metals (steel, roofing iron, angle iron) need a blade specifically rated for ferrous metal cutting — these have a tougher carbide tooth designed to handle the hardness of steel.
Non-ferrous metals (aluminium, copper, brass) can use a slightly less aggressive blade since these metals are softer, but they still need the metal-specific tooth geometry and negative hook.
The Diablo 165mm steel cutting blade (around $65-75 at Bunnings) is rated for mild steel, roofing sheets and angle iron, and is a genuinely worthwhile investment if you're cutting Colorbond or structural steel regularly.
Always check your saw can handle the load — some cordless saws lack the torque for clean metal cuts and will stall.
Blades for Masonry and Concrete Work
What blade do I need to cut besser blocks or bricks? This is where circular saw blades diverge completely from wood and metal options — masonry cutting uses diamond blades or abrasive discs, not carbide teeth.
Diamond Blades vs Abrasive Discs
Diamond blades have a steel body with diamond particles bonded to the segments. They cut faster, last dramatically longer, and produce a cleaner cut than abrasive discs. A general-purpose diamond blade like the Bosch 125mm diamond blade for masonry runs around $25-35 and works well for besser blocks, pavers and light concrete.
Abrasive discs (the thin fibreglass-reinforced discs) are cheaper upfront — often under $10 — but wear down within one or two cuts through dense masonry and generate significantly more dust.
| Blade Type | Best For | Approx. Price | Lifespan |
|---|---|---|---|
| Abrasive disc | Occasional brick/paver cuts | $5-10 | 1-3 cuts |
| Segmented diamond blade | Besser blocks, general masonry | $25-40 | 100+ cuts |
| Continuous rim diamond | Tiles, pavers (clean edge) | $35-60 | 100+ cuts |
For genuine masonry work, use an angle grinder or a dedicated masonry saw rather than a standard circular saw — most circular saws aren't built for the dust and load of sustained concrete cutting, and doing so may void warranty.
Recommended Blades from Bunnings and Specialist Stores
For most home workshops, three blades cover 95% of jobs:
- 24T combination blade for framing and rough cuts — Makita 165mm 24T blade , around $28
- 40T fine finish blade for hardwood and general joinery — Freud Diablo 165mm 40T blade , around $50
- 60T plywood/laminate blade for sheet goods — Makita 165mm 60T blade , around $40
Total Tools and Sydney Tools carry a broader trade-grade range including CMT and Freud blades, while Bunnings stocks reliable mid-range options from Makita, Ozito and Bosch that suit most DIYers.
Blade Maintenance, Storage and Safety Tips
A blade cleaned and stored properly lasts years longer than one left dirty in a shed.
- Wipe resin build-up off after cutting timber, especially treated pine
- Store blades flat or hung, never stacked loose where teeth can chip against each other
- Check for missing or cracked carbide tips before every use
- Never force a blunt blade through material — replace or sharpen it
- Always match blade RPM rating to your saw's maximum speed
- Disconnect power before changing blades, every single time
Common Blade Selection Mistakes to Avoid
The most common mistake is using one all-purpose blade for every material. It might survive, but you'll get burnt edges on hardwood, chipped laminate, and a blunt blade within weeks.
Other frequent errors:
- Using a wood blade on metal or masonry (dangerous, not just ineffective)
- Choosing tooth count based on price rather than material
- Ignoring arbor size and forcing a blade to fit with an incorrect reducer ring
- Not checking blade rotation direction when fitting
- Continuing to cut with a blade that's visibly burning or smoking the timber
Bottom Line
There's no single "best" circular saw blade — only the right blade for the material in front of you. Keep a 24-tooth combination blade for rough framing, a 40-tooth blade for hardwood, and a 60-80 tooth blade for plywood and laminate, and you'll cover almost every timber job.
For metal, invest in a proper ferrous-rated blade rather than risking a wood blade. For masonry, reach for a diamond blade or better yet, an angle grinder built for the job.
Spending an extra $20-30 on the correct blade saves you money on wasted material, protects your saw, and — most importantly — keeps you safer at the bench.
